Moving to Colombia was as exciting as it was terrifying. Exciting because I was fulfilling a bucket-list dream; terrifying because of the anxiety and uncertainty surrounding how wise this choice was.
According to GOV.UK, tourists need to be wary of terrorist attacks, kidnappings, robberies, assaults and other crimes. The government even warn against travel to certain parts of the country because of the armed conflict and cocaine trade. The overall message is that Colombia is unsafe, so naturally, this is the perception that many Europeans have of the country.
Despite these warnings, my experience as a solo female traveller in Colombia has been remarkably different. Whilst the information shared by the British authorities and other governmental bodies worldwide is accurate and necessary, I can’t help but compare this factual, albeit unsympathetic, depiction of Colombia with my own reality as a woman who has spent ten months living, working and travelling around the country.
Colombians vs Europeans
It took me several months of living in Neiva to fully understand how safe I truly was. Due to the higher rates of crime and ongoing unrest in Colombia, I had naively and unfairly assumed the citizens themselves would have a more reckless approach to everyday life than my friends and family back in the UK, most of whom were highly concerned about my plans to go to South America. Evidently, I held my own stereotypes about the country and these had only been exacerbated by the preconceived opinions I was subject to before my arrival.
When the Colombians did in fact remind me over and over again to be careful, no dar papaya (not show off any valuables), not walk at night, keep my phone hidden, not hail random taxis and so on, I then found it hard to gauge the actual risk of leaving the house. People back home wouldn’t show this level of anxiety about safety, so did that mean there was genuine cause for concern in Neiva?
Initially, I travelled tentatively and took extra caution even just to go to the supermarket. As my confidence grew, so did my curiosity over what everyone had been regularly warning me about. I eventually realised that Colombian people’s anxiety surrounding safety isn’t necessarily a reaction to a constant, imminent danger, but rather evidence of a culture of fear in Colombia that stems from a long history of violence.
Travelling is a particular cause for concern among Colombians. For example, when I tell someone in Colombia that I’m going on a trip, their first question is, ‘Who are you going with?’ because solo travel in any country is deemed unsafe. When I’ve finally shared all the details with them they’ll say, ‘Stay safe.’ In Europe, we benefit from more privileges, such as travel and accommodation options across various first-world countries which are accessible within our salaries. In other words, we can afford to go abroad more frequently and thus are generally more experienced when it comes to (solo) travel. For this reason, when you tell a European you’re going on a trip, their first question is likely to be, ‘Where are you going?’ and then once you’ve finally shared all the details with them they’ll say, ‘Have fun.’
The Reality of Safety
During my ten months in Colombia, all my trips have gone relatively smoothly. No robbing, no harassment, no kidnapping, no assault—nothing at all to write home about. So you can imagine my utter shock when, in Cartagena, two twenty-something-year-old graduates from Brighton told me they had been robbed on their first day in Colombia. How did it happen? Why them and not me? Could it have been me? Had I just been lucky this whole time?
Upon further questioning, they revealed that their trouble began when they accepted a taxi driver’s offer to buy cocaine. A couple of pints with the man and a few phone calls later, they were being forced into buying more grams than they wanted and held at knifepoint to withdraw all their money from their bank account. This all happened in broad daylight. They somehow managed to save themselves by typing in their pin code wrong enough times to lock their account and fortunately, neither boy was harmed. At least, that was the version of events they told me whilst narcotised.
Is Colombia Dangerous?
Drug trafficking remains a serious issue in Colombia and the consensus I’ve observed among Colombians is that they are strongly against it and ashamed to even be associated with it. And yet production continues on their land because of the demand from, predominantly, Europe and the US. To sustain this illicit trade from our countries is already hypocritical; to take advantage of it in the very country suffering from its existence is quite simply unacceptable. What I find most problematic about the behaviour of the two individuals from Brighton (and perhaps of many imprudent tourists) is how the one-sided account they are likely to tell when they get home will perpetuate the belief in Europe that Colombia is dangerous; that Colombians are dangerous. Indeed, not only are we Europeans perpetuating the negative stereotypes about Colombia, but we’re part of the problem which we criticise the country for. Isn’t it about time we took a look at ourselves in the mirror on this matter?
It’s because of the emphasis on this damaging narrative of Colombia that I felt the need to share an honest and balanced version, based on my lengthy experience of being here. Although no harm or misfortune has ever come to me during my time here, that’s not to say crime never happens. Theft and robbery are the most common narratives I’ve heard from friends, fellow travellers and tourists. Apart from the Cartagena story, these haven’t been violent acts of theft but their occurrence is frequent enough to heed the warnings of no dar papaya and all the rest of it. Traffic accidents are just as common and this isn’t helped by the relaxed approach to the enforcement of speeding, obeying traffic signals, wearing seat belts and helmets and respecting vehicle capacities. Unstable laws also allow for corruption to persist in the country. Moreover, tourists and residents alike need to be aware of guerrilla-marked territory and areas where there is a risk of contracting malaria. In short, there is certainly reason enough to be travelling mindfully.
What About Solo Female Travellers?
Though I don’t hear about it as often, femicide is also a harrowing reality here which doesn’t receive the mediatic attention or legal response that it deserves. Nevertheless, these occurrences aren’t unique to developing countries like Colombia; they happen worldwide and that includes the UK and Ireland. Perhaps statistically I’m more likely to be robbed, assaulted or worse in Colombia, but neither am I 100% safe in my homeland. Being in a statistically safer country didn’t protect Sarah Everard as she was walking home from a friend’s house. Nor did it prevent Ashling Murphy from being murdered during an afternoon run. What’s more, as a student of Queen’s University Belfast up until 2022, I had just as much chance of being stabbed by Dermott McIlveen on my way to the train station as the other six women who were walking about Belfast that evening. These cases barely scratch the surface of the violence women in particular have faced in Europe. Safety concerns are a universal experience; women everywhere must constantly assess risks, regardless of where they are, and Colombia is no exception.
There are evident issues and ongoing safety concerns in Colombia and these shouldn’t be taken lightly when deciding to travel here. However, wariness and careful planning are greatly compensated by the rich culture and spectacular landscapes that Colombia has to offer. Having been here for almost a year, I think there’s only so far we can thank luck, angels and manifestation for my untroubled experience. My time here has shown that with caution and common sense, a positive travel experience in Colombia is entirely possible. For travelling not only encourages us to become more culturally aware, but to challenge the prejudices we hold and, ultimately, to trust our instincts.
Out of the Shell 